On the western shores of Lake Garda sits Ristorante Lido 84 – a place considered as Italy’s biggest open secret by its clientele of well-heeled insiders. Converted from an old outdoor swimming pool in 2014, it started as a humble space run by two brothers – 47 year-old chef Riccardo Camanini and 46-year-old co-owner Giancarlo Camanini, who manages the front of house. Within six months of opening, they were bestowed their first Michelin star. Today, Miele is proud to recognise the brother’s continued efforts in advancing the evolution of Italian cuisine and hospitality through the 2019 Miele One To Watch award – one that celebrates emerging global talent.
Lido 84 stands out with its inimitable style of food and hospitality. From Riccardo comes a unique cuisine that is at once radically modernist yet comfortingly familiar.
The 47 year-old is a huge champion of artisanal ingredients and makes it his mission to seek them out – be it a local cheese or tomato sauce, made in traditional ways that are fast disappearing. He also has a passion for forgotten dishes: the signature item at Lido 84 is a Roman dish of cacio e pepe ‘en Vessie’ – a simple cheese and pepper pasta cooked within an inflated pig’s bladder and – presented with fine dining flourish at the tableside. Speaking with Miele, he also enthused about reviving cooking pike, live from Lake Carda, au bleu. “The French technique (of cooking a fish instantly after dispatching it, in vinegared water), even though common in the Fifties and incredibly romantic, is almost lost because many chefs prefer to cook in controlled low temperature. The method is very simple but requires for the fish to be live until the point it is about to be cooked, and so not many people do it anymore. Yet, the taste of a fish cooked au bleu is much more intense in flavour than a fish cooked in a plastic bag in low temperature.”
Riccardo has often spoken about the importance of cooking by feel, and has famously banned timers from his kitchen. Yet despite his penchant for the romantic, classical ways, and a passion for time-honoured flavours, Riccardo does not limit himself to conventions. A veteran chef who has worked under the tutelage of masters such as Gualtiero Marchesi, Raymond Blanc, Jean-Louis Nomicos and Alain Ducasse, Riccardo is one with his own distinct style.